Columns, In the Garden

Winter Pest Management in Apple Trees

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BURLINGTON – The apple harvest is over, but there are still some important pest management practices to follow to ensure healthy trees in the spring. The pests we need to manage are not the little ones we typically see in the summer but are larger and fluffier and include rabbits, mice and voles.

Occasionally, voles will burrow in the soil and damage roots, resulting in weakened trees. Moles do not cause damage to the tree bark since they are meat eaters looking for grubs and earthworms.

Rabbits and other animals can girdle an apple tree by feeding on its bark, resulting in extensive damage that causes the tree to succumb.
photo by Ann Hazelrigg, UVM Extension

Maintaining vegetation-free zones under tree canopies extending at least two feet from the trunk will discourage voles from living near the bases of trees where they cause the most damage. Rabbits, mice and voles have plenty to eat in the summer but once the temperatures drop and snow covers the ground, food sources become scarce.

These animals often prefer young apple tree bark because it is tender, thin and easier to chew, so be prepared to protect these in addition to young crabapples.

The furry pests will nibble the bark at the base of a tree or higher when the animal stands on top of deep snow. If the damage is small and located on only one side of the tree, the tree can often repair itself over time.

However, if the feeding damage totally encircles the trunk, the tree is “girdled” and will not survive unless you intervene with bridge grafting, a dying art that connects the two portions of the tree with grafted strips of the same type of tree. Without this bridge, the tree will die due to the interruption of the water-conducting system that transports nutrients and water from the roots to the foliage at the top of the tree.

A plastic wrap tree guard will protect crabapple trees from damage by winter pests such as rabbits, mice and voles.
photo by Ann Hazelrigg, UVM Extension

To protect a tree, be sure the barrier you choose covers the trunk from the soil line up to at least two feet or higher depending on snow depth. Try to protect the tree up to the first set of branches. You can use quarter-inch hardware mesh and, if possible, set it four to six inches into the ground to prevent vole burrowing.

The hardware cloth or screening can stay on year-round and, if sealed at the top, can protect against apple borers. Create a large enough diameter to allow for five years of growth. Or use 24-inch white, spiral plastic tree wraps to protect your fruit trees, but the wraps should be removed in the spring since they can harbor pests in the summer.

Dr. Ann Hazelrigg is the University of Vermont Extension plant pathologist and director of the UVM Plant Diagnostic Clinic.

Dr. Ann Hazelrigg

Dr. Ann Hazelrigg is the University of Vermont Extension plant pathologist and director of the UVM Plant Diagnostic Clinic.

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