WOLCOTT – “That’s an odd-looking dog,” I said to myself. The slim creature with the perky ears then revealed itself and two others as I neared a bend in Wolcott, by the winding Lamoille River. The trio had no interest in meeting me; instead, they did an about-face and gave me a triple white-tailed moon to start my day on northern Vermont’s Lamoille Valley Rail Trail (LVRT).
photo by Marty Basch
That wasn’t the only moon I saw along the sublime route. When the morning was clear, I’d look up while crossing the many bridges or riding by countless acres of corn to see a nearly full moon in the great big blue sky.
I’ve been biking pieces of the 94-mile LVRT since September 2015, beginning at the eastern end, from St. Johnsbury to Danville, when it was still in its sectional stages. I last returned for the western terminus between Sheldon Junction and Swanton in summer 2024.
With a few days to spare earlier this month, I cycled some 90 or so miles from the outskirts of St. Johnsbury, bypassing a hilly detour west of town caused by 2024 floods, to Swanton. There was one minor signed detour west of Danville to negotiate but beside that it was pure, blissful dirt. My wife Jan drove the SAG (support and gear) wagon, ensuring we were never far from necessities like lodging and food.
photo by Jan Basch
The long trail cuts a swath through Vermont’s dirt road kingdom, a rural land of woods, rivers, farms, small towns, miles of maze-like maple syrup lines, cool rock-cut passageways that allowed trains to proceed and rippling mountains. Cows chomped away on grasses. Herons and blue jays flew about. Gentle breezes made leaves flutter, looking like waves of one-handed applause.
Along the way, there are a multitude of trailheads with parking, many with creative touches to the path’s railroad history from bright murals to vibrant gardens. There are interpretive signs, toilets, maps, tool stations, picnic tables and more for trail users to enjoy.
The pathway also crosses other well-known Vermont trails like the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail, hiking’s Long Trail and skiing’s Catamount Trail.
Key to appreciating the trail is being prepared before the ride. The excellent Vermont state trail website railtrails.vermont.gov has information about detours, maps and other useful resources.
The leaves were beginning to turn color with muted tones because of the nasty drought. Some were already falling, landing among grounded apples. The air at times was crisp, and also sporadically pungent with agriculture’s acridity.
Strolling morning moms made way to cyclists of all types on mountain bikes, e-bikes, trikes and ancient hybrids with rubber brake pads. Saddlebag toting bicycle travelers pedaled away as did locals on fitness runs.
Traveling east to west meant a few head winds, morning sun in the rearview mirror and best, an elevation profile that had the first 20 or so easy miles going uphill before a nice gentle downhill slope, or so it seemed, the rest of the way. Though there were a few hilly swells in there too. Which way should you ride?
Either way is fine. But come on, just ask your wife and she’ll tell you.
Cycling mid-week, non-holiday is always best if it can be done.
The trail with its myriad grades of crushed stone surfaces certainly is growing in popularity, finally fully connected along its 18 towns in 2023 when Wolcott came online. It seemed like it was an AARP pathway with loads of seasoned cyclists pedaling about in both directions. I met several riders from upstate New York along the way, stopping to take photos at a multi-colored cow statue, and later bumped into them at the Smugglers Notch Inn in Jeffersonville, not far off the trail, where we bedded that night. One of the riders was wearing a Mount Washington Bicycle Hillclimb long sleeve jersey. He had done the race once and was proud not to have come in last.
The 30ish miles between Hardwick and Cambridge seemed to be the most active with riders and facilities. One of the joys was picking up local cheeses and meats. One disappointment was seeing the Cabot cheese store in Hardwick closed on a Monday. Despite that, four cyclists were sitting outside enjoying the lunches they had brought. But that’s what happens when husbands plan trips.
Nonetheless, there was redemption.
The store was open on the drive home. So we indulged in the samples, bought cheese and enjoyed some with Vermont smoked general store pepperoni around our kitchen table.
Marty Basch writes for The Conway (N.H,) Daily Sun. Reach him at conwaydailysun.com/users/profile/mbasch
